Goodies in the Shop!

It was time to sort through some things that have been just sitting or hanging around. The result was that I added some of my vintage-inspired clothing and some vintage patterns up in my shop tonight.


Take a look!

Vintage sewing

The sewing bug has bit me. And in the unusual place of the 1940s and 50s. ;) It's rather odd, too, as those years are ones that I'm naturally fond of. Perhaps it was this dress I saw on etsy not to long ago:

What's also strange is that I'm not a polka dot person at all. 75% of my wardrobe is stripes and the rest is solid or woven to go with said striped items. ;) The dress is quite simple from what I can tell, with just a full aline skirt attached to the empire waist. Perhaps this will be included with my other tucked-away ideas for future reference.

In the mean time I really want to sew up that 1930s frock I posted about months ago. This 1930s dress I pinned on pinterest is sort of an inspiration for it.

Hmm. Polka dots again. Maybe they're starting to grow on me. Or maybe I'm just recovering from being bitten from the sewing bug. ;)

The Beginnings of a 1930s Frock for Spring

For Christmas my parents had given me two 1930s patterns, one of them being a cute dress with all the fun details that often ascribe that of the 30s. The other was a slip pattern which will come in handy now that I have a few patterns in this era.

It wasn't that long ago that while thrifting, my eyes caught a cute print with enough yardage for a dress. There is no name on the salvage, and the polyester-feeling fabric is of higher quality than that of Wal-mart's, and it's not as heavy as JoAnn's silky prints, so I'm not sure if it's vintage or not.

Some vintage buttons from my stash should help give it a vintage vibe. Since when did Sears sell buttons? Note to self: check with google as soon as this post is finished!

Now if I can find the time to sew, that would be nice... :) It's almost as much fun to plan for something as is the fruition of it.

Fun in the Snow, 1930s style

If you "like" A Joyful Handmaiden's Facebook page you would have seen that earlier this week I found a vintage coat at one of my least-likely-to-visit thrift stores (that changed!). While I normally try not to buy an item that is full priced from the thrift store, one can't even buy a modern coat for $11 in pristine condition.

We have some snow, so this morning I convinced one of my brothers to follow me outside and grab a few pictures.

As you can see, it has enough fur on the collar and sleeves to keep anyone toasty warm!

My sister's dog loves to run in the snow or bury her head in it. Silly girl!

The coat has a tiny label on it, but it doesn't give very many clues as to its age. I think it looks 1930s after finding some images on pinterest. But then again, if you look for 1970s coats, they look interestingly familiar to that of the 30s.

Looking at the notched collars on this picture found here, the belted waist, the double breasted buttons and such, I still want to believe that it's from the 30s. Does anyone else have a clue?

Now I just need to find a suitable 30s style hat (that fits my large head!) to sport around. ;)

1930s Vogue Christmas Dress

I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Yes, I really did attempt to do those finger waves (practice will make perfect eventually...) and yes, I felt like I just came out of Downton Abbey. ;)

 

Pattern: Vintage Vogue 2671 pattern, from an original 1933 design
Fabric, rhinestone button, and supplies: antique store
Jewelry: silver plated earrings from Kohls
Shoes: 23 Skidoo Shoes from American Duchess
Wallet: JCPenny
Lipstick: "Shimmering" by Lancome

You know a garment was sewn right when you don't want to take it off and are tempted to wear it to church tomorrow for the Christmas Banquet. (Do I dare?)

In Progress: a 1940s Marian Martin Housecoat

Lest you think I gave up on my vintage Vogue 1930s dress, let me assure you that I persevered and finished it yesterday afternoon. At last! :) It finished without a hitch. The details of the pattern is what makes the dress, otherwise it would be quite drab considering the solid fabric. In fact, my sister commented that the fabric looked Amish.

::ahem:: Not exactly the look I was going for!

I went with the vintage rhinestone-studded button from my stash (my camera refused to pick up its clarity, so I apologize). This way I can wear silver, black, or even pearled accessories with the dress if needed.

 



 

I can hardly wait to slip into it for photos! I have a few ideas in mine for a photoshoot, and if possible, I hope to make that happen this weekend if one of my siblings are willing to take the pictures. Stay tuned!

After I put away my pattern, teal threads, and whatnot, I pulled out my new-to-me 1940s housecoat pattern. If you've been a longtime reader, you may remember this long sleeved flannel robe I made from the same pattern (though a size smaller). My older sister now owns it, and apparently I sold it to her for $14. ::blink:: You can barely buy 2 yards of flannel for that price, let alone 5 yards!!

I'm making the short sleeved version this time around and shorting the skirt by a good 13" or so. Part of the reason is because of the vintage fabric I chose for it (an antique store find for $3) was measuring about 3 yards. But I thought it'd make an excellent robe/housecoat for spring, summer, and autumn wear.

I was hoping to use some vintage lace for the collar, sleeves, and pocket, but I didn't have enough of what I had on hand. My next consideration was white piping, but I don't have any on hand, so I chose some vintage rick rack. One can never go wrong with using it! ;) In fact, I think I almost like the idea of the subtle touch rather than a glaring white piping or lace.

Have a happy Thursday!

Christmas Reading (and an update on the 30s dress!)

Every year I look forward to reading a few of Kate Douglas Wiggin's books over the holiday season. I read about The Birds' Christmas Carol on a blog I follow, and then a friend confirmed that it was a really sweet story. Another book (not shown) is The Old Peabody Pew that is another endearing story of someone who holds onto hope and love. Romance of a Christmas Card has a similar story line of "coming home". For better written details, Lanier writes about them and a few other books that will provide the warm entertainment for your heart and mind this season.

 

Do you have any favorite books you always pull out to read at Christmastime?

 

In other news, progress is slowly being made on my 1930s Christmas dress. I'm glad I started it when I did since I've seemed to have several interruptions since then, and now Mother-Dear wants some sewing done, too.

 

There is an odd sort of gap so far that I'm not sure quite what to do with, but maybe when I get the facings and button sewn on it will help?

Photos from the 1930s

I've decided to take my time on my 1930s dress. There may or may not be some patience needed in making said dress. ::ahem:: If I can just make a little progress on it each day, I'll be pleased.

After stopping at Grandma's in Michigan, my mom and sister brought home with them some cookbooks made by a somewhat distant relative of mine. In the cookbooks there is some family history written and it includes several pictures. I took screen shots from the PDF files, and below are two from the 1930s. I'm assuming these are the girls graduation pictures, as elsewhere in the cookbook they gave a graduation date for the girl in the first picture, and her sister was born a little over a year later.

 



Class of 1933

Class of 1934

My brother says I resemble the 2nd one, but I'm not so certain as he often says endearing comments to us girls (he'll be a charmer someday!). But aren't they lovely girls?

On a different note, A Joyful Handmaiden is now "Facebook official"! Perhaps you do more on FB than on blog readers, and would find it helpful to be kept up to date with new posts or new items added to the shop. You'll have to pardon its depleated look, but hopefully in no time it will look as though its used. Look it up! :)

In Progress: 1930s Christmas Frock

After adding a couple new aprons to the shop over the weekend, I began on my 1930s Christmas dress with great excitement, but that quickly deflated. Perhaps it was after taking a good month off of sewing that I wasn't paying attention to what I was doing, but I was making mistake after mistake! And ones that I don't usually make, so it quickly escalated into a frustrating mess of fabric.

Before I shut down the sewing machines on Saturday, some progress was finally being made and below are a few testimonials of what was done:

I love the tucks in the back neck.

Arabella is kept in this corner of the sewing room, so please overlook the pile of shirts at the end of the ironing board! :) Sadly, I was just a little short on fabric, so there aren't the full amount of pleats in the front and back insets, but I think it will be okay.

Today I'm working on the front part of the dress, and if I feel ambitious (granted I have the time to do so!) I may attempt to finish it. Is anyone else making anything special for this coming Christmas season?

If you happen to be sewing today, you may enjoy this podcast by speaker Nancy Leigh DeMoss and a guest on creating a more meaningful holiday season. I'm listening to it right now as I type.

Pattern Collection: Historically Inspired

Happy Monday! Sorry if  your hopes were in having the final installment of my pattern collection up on the blog, but my weekend was quite busy and eventful.

 

I put this collection together by sorting the patterns by era. It's rather obvious which is my favorite, but I've been trying to reach out of my "comfort zone" and not dislike other eras.

 

Regency:

 



Don't ask why, but for some reason when I brightened up this picture, it cropped it too. And without my permission! But if anyone is familiar with Sense & Sensibility patterns, you'll recognize these. While I haven't picked up the Regency era much lately, several years ago that's all I did. Most of what was sewn was for selling on ebay and for awhile, they sold extremely well.

 

Turn of the Century/Edwardian:

These are my patterns that aren't from S&S. ;) The first one is from another favorite company (hi, Amanda!) who makes many fun patterns: Hint of History. At one point I had her 1912 dress pattern and I regrettably sold it, but years before doing so I made a dress out of it. It's an excellent pattern if you're wanting something Downton Abbey looking!

 

The second pattern in the top row is a reproduction of an actual pattern. I bought it online from a vintage fashion library website of some sort. It reminded me very much of Anne's "cow chasing dress" in the movie, "Anne of Avonlea." Someday I hope to recreate it. :)

 

Moving on to the Folkwear pattern, doesn't it look like something Diana Barry would wear? And who can put down a matching apron pattern for ladies and girls? The pattern comes with a few other tea-related things like maybe a teapot cover, napkins, and such.

 

And then the lovely wedding dress pattern put out by Sullivan Entertainment that is identical to Anne Shirley's dress when she married Gil. Many of you are waiting for a full photo shoot to replace the quick one taken on the veranda of me wearing my take on this pattern.

 

Here is another set of pattern from S&S. I've made something from all of these except for the Beatrix Potter jacket pattern.

 

One of the many things that I love about S&S patterns is that many of them come from or are adapted from original patterns. When making something, and stepping into a finished garment, you feel as if you are from that era. :) Once again, I've made something from all of these patterns. Most recognizable of course would be the 1910s tea gown made into a Titanic "Swim dress" shown here and here. Then of course I've made two dresses from the 1914 afternoon dress: my first one back in 2007 and then my second one made this year.

1930s - 1940s:

After the Edwardian era, the 1930s is probably my favorite though I'm growing a fondness to some of the 1920s fashions (thanks Downton Abbey!). The first pattern is a Vogue reproduction of a 1933 dress pattern. I saw this on etsy and immediately fell in love with the design and details. It somehow seemed familiar to me, and then it dawned on me that my friend Laura has this pattern. :) There is a dress cut out in this pattern that is sitting on my table waiting to be sewn, so hopefully before the year is out, you'll see pictures of it completed.

Earlier this year I made a dress out of the Decade's of Style pattern and really liked the way it turned out. Bias cuts aren't the most flattering on me at the present, so not long ago the dress was sold in my etsy shop.

Lastly, there is the 1940s Swing Dress pattern that I used this summer for my sister. You'll remember that the dress was made specifically for a special retro diner themed dinner, and now that it has taken place, she tells me that all she has to show her wearing the dress are a few head shots. I told her the other day that I have many blog readers who want to see the full length of it and on her! :) Hopefully soon I can take her out on a photo shoot for some pictures.

Pattern Collection: Vintage

Dating from 1969 and earlier, these are the vintage patterns I've collected. The thrift stores, antique stores, etsy, and ebay are my favorite places to find these well-loved patterns.

First off is my children's collection. This too has shrunk. I've either sold some or given some away for the same reasons I gave in my previous post. :)

 

The top left one is my "newest" find at an "uppity up" antique store in town and it was marked for 50 cents.  It has no date, but I'm thinking late 20s or early 30s. And look at those bathrobes! It's definitely from the 30s, and looks simple to put together. The style reminds me of wrappers worn by the Walton children on the TV series, "The Waltons."

 

The bottom two are from the 60s. The Holly Hobbie pattern interested me with it's sweet sunbonnet and apron. Staples in a young girls dress-up box! And lastly, I picked up this wild and crazy pattern not for the toys (though I'm sure making toys could be/would be safer than some they make now days) but for the apron shown in the lower left corner. A few made in this pattern have made their way into the shop a couple years ago.

 

 

This next set is a fun one. The top row consists of a 40s skirt pattern I picked up last year at a sewing boutique shop, and have since wanted to make a skirt out of it. I almost used my wool fabric in this pattern. The 2nd in the top row was my very first vintage pattern purchase. I remember when my Dad bid on ebay for me when I was still working on my adult sewing skills (I learned sewing on doll clothes). I made the short sleeve version in a red plaid, and we have pictures of me wearing it somewhere, but can't seem to find it. The 50s nightgown pattern was one I picked up for my sister who loves to sew nightgowns as much as I love to sew aprons, but it didn't interest her. I may end up selling this one.

 

And then of course there are two 40s apron patterns. I've used both and they've made their appearance in my etsy shop as well, though it's been awhile. And then a 70s apron pattern, which I suppose could be put in with my modern collection, but oh well. This pattern is also a fun one, and one that I've used for aprons in the shop before, as well as for myself. If you've been a reader for a good 6 years or more, you may remember this post?

 

 

And finally we have my oldest patterns, both in the early 1900s. The bloomers I'm guessing would be around 1900 (possibly 1899? I should check the pattern) and the shirtwaist I'm guessing around 1912 by judging her hair style.



I know I've made the bloomers before (maybe sold a pair on ebay?) and I'm pretty certain I've made the shirtwaist, too, to sell. Following is a close up picture that I attempted to take for details since the above one features a nasty glare.

 

With sorting through all my patterns, I'm starting to get the bug to get back to sewing again, but alas, my sewing machine was starting to give up the ghost and is now enroute to the shop for repair and won't see it for a good two weeks. As my dad says, I've done more sewing on that machine in the last 15 years than what many people do in their lifetime. ;)





Modern McCalls meets 1930s Inspired

Finding cute skirt patterns can sometimes be a challenge. When I saw an unused pattern of McCalls 4924 (now out of print) for sale and in my size, there was no hesitation to purchase it.

 

 

My favorite views were A and B, and knew that my vintage woolen yardage would be perfect for this pattern. For days I was trying to decide if I wanted lace insets. Part of me liked the idea but then I wondered how modest it would be. I thought about doing solid fabric like this cute dress features, but my sister suggested that it might make the skirt look more "homemade." I came across a picture of this 1930s suit on pinterest, and thought that it wouldn't look so bad using the same fabric, so that's what I ended up using.

Since I avoid alterations if they can be helped, I made view B as is and love it. So onto the pictures... :) These pictures were taken this morning after church.

 

Maybe it's my imagination, but the buttons above the pleated insets really add that vintage touch to the skirt, don't you think? Excuse the wrinkles. After all, I was sitting in church. ;)

Etienne Aigner herringbone oxford-styled heels match wonderfully!

And like I said I would, I used the lace seam binding on the inside waistband. Sorry, no picture of that. ;)

 

There is about 1 yard left of this herringbone wool, and when my Dad saw it he said it would make great speaker covers (ie. sound speakers for a living room). :P Unless he really wants it, I think it will be tucked away in my stash bin for something else. Perhaps made up in a men's vintage style vest?

1930s "Decades of Style" Dress

And my dress is completed! It went together well, and I'm very happy that it turned out.

At one point I thought that this dress may have to be put up for sale since, ::ahem:: my body curves are slightly different than Arabella's (though I have my dress form set to my measurements, and yes, that is her name). But I slipped the frock on just a few moments ago, and it looks better than it did a few days ago.

With only having 1/2" seam allowance and then serged seams inside, it wasn't worth picking apart. The fabric still clings to curves that I'm trying to eliminate, but perhaps if I wore a full length slip it would help some.

Click these to see the "before" pictures

- The dress in the making
- Fabric choices
- The pattern I used: #3007 1930s Button Dress

Anyway, enough with those details and onto the pictures!

Front view

I used my serger to roll hem these sleeves. There was NO way on this earth that I was going to do any other method with this fabric!

I love the back neck tie closure. Despite great amounts of ironing, those seams refused to lay flat.

The back view

I was glad that buttons were on sale a few weeks ago at JoAnns. These looked the most "art deco" to me. Sorry for the blurry picture. My camera didn't want to cooperate this morning.

It has a size zipper closure. I've done hundreds (no joke) of invisible zippers, but never before in the side seam. It turned out perfectly.

And I had to grab a quick shot in my mother's bedroom. Someday I'll do better than throwing my hair into a ponytail, and do a nice photo shoot. Which reminds me that I still need to do one of my silk Edwardian dress. Goodness, that was over a year ago!

Next up on my table is a 19-teens Garden Party dress using vintage white laces, mother of pearl buttons, polished pastel cotton, and white airy fabrics. The design is still "on the drawing board" and I'm trying to figure out which patterns to use for it. No worries, I'll share all these things with you as they progress!

In Progress: a 1930s frock

You saw the beginnings of this dress, but I didn't tell you that it's a 1930s dress. What I like about it that it's modern enough to wear out in public and people won't look at you strangely or ask you if you're in a theater production (though it has been many years, I have had people asked me that).

 

One confession of mine as a seamstress with a new pattern: I greatly dislike following printed directions. Just SHOW me how to do and I'll do it, but trying to read a pattern is sometimes like reading another language.

My knowledge and skill of crocheting, knitting, tatting, and embroidery all comes from willing teachers (my grandmother, a mentor, and friends). That's why I know nothing of quilting or cross-stitch; the directions never make sense.

As a self-taught seamstress (lots of failures, ripping and re-doing) and a few people along the way who demonstrated how something is done, I will often come up with my own way or method of putting something together. That can be a good and bad thing. Good if you see something in the store or on someone that you want to recreate. Bad when you're working with an unfamiliar pattern. But like my college math professor instilled in me, "Do what it says," I was/am determined to get through this pattern!

I am pretty pleased that these shoulder corners turned out without puckers or anything weird going on that required seam ripping. Looking over the directions, I think I have "the worst" of the construction of this dress behind me.

Now I just need to go to the store and buy interfacing for the next step. I rarely use the stuff and never have it on hand. :)

A "love-hate" relationship

Today I am in the sewing room working with the most dreadful and horrid of fabrics you can imagine. Even the lady at the fabric store, who was cutting the ivory silky stuff (don't recall the name, but I'll find out what it is) cautioned me of it's atrocious nature.

Despite the crumminess, they are indeed pretty! Already mentioning the light colored fabric (and I paid dearly for it!) I got away with a steal of only paying a dollar or two for the vintage print. I'm not sure if it's rayon or not, but it sort of feels like it. When I washed it though, it didn't shrink much; for which I was very glad since it was 35" from selvage to selvage.

Here's hoping the final results will be worth it!

When working with such materials, it makes me oh-so-happy to sew with cotton. In fact, my wardrobe use to consist entirely of cottons for awhile. One spring we girls and Mother-dear made matching blue calico dresses to wear on Mother's Day. But that's not all. Our friends had the exact same print made up into dresses. Imagine the fun 10 women and girls had walking into church with matching dresses. ;) We probably have pictures somewhere, that should probably stay right where they are. Haha! While the dresses are long gone, it's the memory of them that made me smile when I made up a Gracie apron yesterday using that exact same fabric.

The color reminds me of the blue flax that grows on the wild prairies of Colorado, hence its name: Blue Flax